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The History of Chronographs

One of my favourite complications in watchmaking is the humble chronograph. At first glance, some might question its relevance in an age when precise timing is always within reach on a smartphone. And it’s true — when I’m cooking and need exact timing, I often reach for my phone without a second thought. But my appreciation for the chronograph goes far beyond practicality. To me, it represents something far more compelling: beauty, history, and a certain romantic spirit.

Bryan

47 minutes ago7 min read

Vario Versa Year of the Horse Review: My Favorite Watch of 2026

Vario is a Singapore-based microbrand, which is celebrating its 10th year anniversary this year. Not only is this a significant accomplishment for an Asian microbrand in an industry dominated by Western competitors, it’s impressive for a microbrand in general. For context, the oldest microbrand is Christopher Ward (UK microbrand-cum-independent founded in 2004), and the next oldest microbrands that come to mind would be Baltic, which was founded in 2016 just like Vario.

A Tale of Two Kuoe Watches

Both of us at The Watch Brief own a Kuoe. Founded in 2020 by designer Uchimura, the brand debuted with the Old Smith 90-001. Today, Kuoe operates from a stylish boutique in the Nakagyo Ward, while also selling watches at retail locations worldwide. The Kuoe Old Smith 90-002, which is a bronze field watch featuring a lightly textured black dial, a tan NATO strap, and powered by the workhorse NH38 movement. I've had it for several months now, and it's a comfortable wear.

Vertex M36 Review: The Ultimate Historical Timepiece

There are two types of military watches in the world. The first are “military” in name only. Created with faux patina, pretend ruggedness, and a price tag that can make eyes water. The second are the real deal: built for purpose, unpretentious, and about as glamorous as a spade. The Vertex M36 sits firmly in the latter camp. It’s not here to dazzle the office accountants or win Instagram likes. It’s here to tell the time. It’s unapologetically simple. It’s designed with pu

Lunar New Year Watches: The Best for 2026

Unlike Christmas or Hanukkah or Ramadan, the revolving door of Zodiac Animals - like this year’s Horse - allows watchmakers and designers to be more creative and go beyond kitsch when creating a watch to honor this annual event. Furthermore, the Zodiac Animals also have different elements. I, for one, am an Earth Tiger, while a relative of mine is a Water Tiger. The fact that we can incorporate elements creates a much richer tapestry for designers when planning ahead for thei

A Conversation with Axon Watches: Accessible Complications

So when Tommaso took the leap of faith to launch his own brand, it was to bring a complicated watch to the wrists of consumers without costing over a hundred thousand euros (at minimum). After a year of research, he learned, unfortunately, that releasing a debut watch at under a thousand euros with a grand complication like a perpetual calendar or minute repeater was literally impossible, but that didn’t mean he couldn’t do the next best thing: A watch with a lot of great com

Watches 0f 2025: F1, World Timers, Land Dwellers, and Wayward Tudors

As the year comes to an end, and our bank accounts briefly swell with our bonus before being emptied to purchase gifts for our loved ones, let’s take a look back at some of the watches that were released in 2025. This list will be divided by our favorite releases, our least-favorite, and releases that made us go, “Huh, well, that’s… interesting.”